Chigusa, Shinjuku: Hitakami Chokarakuchi Junmai with Chigusa-maki

Chigusa has the compact, old-school feel of a traditional Shinjuku izakaya. On July 11, 2026, the sake selection was broader than the room’s familiar atmosphere first suggested, but one combination became the clear reference point for the visit: Hitakami Chokarakuchi Junmai with Chigusa-maki.

The room and the order

A view of the sake lineup inside Chigusa. This frame documents the room, not the bottle served at the table.

Chigusa-maki is the restaurant’s namesake dish: tuna and grated yam rolled in nori, served without rice. The soft yam, clean tuna, and savory nori made it a useful dish for seeing whether a sake could stay dry and structured without becoming severe.

The sake: Hitakami Chokarakuchi Junmai

Hitakami Chokarakuchi Junmai, served chilled during the visit.

Hitakami Chokarakuchi Junmai — rendered here as “Hitakami Extra Dry Junmai” — came across as firmly dry, with restrained aroma, bright acidity, noticeable weight, and a crisp finish. It had enough structure to stay present beside food, but it did not pull attention away from the dish.

The dish: Chigusa-maki

Chigusa-maki: tuna and grated yam wrapped in nori, served without rice.

Without rice, the dish stays focused on texture and savoriness. The tuna gives it a clean, meaty center, the grated yam softens the texture, and the nori adds a deeper savory edge.

Why the pairing worked

Hitakami’s dry profile and firm acidity carried the tuna, yam, and nori cleanly. The acidity kept the grated yam from feeling too soft, while the sake’s body stayed level with the tuna and nori rather than disappearing behind them.

It was the best match of this visit — a judgment limited to what was eaten and drunk at Chigusa that night, not a claim that this is the universal best pairing for Hitakami.

What stayed with me

The visit worked because the sake remained part of the meal. Hitakami had enough weight and acidity to define the pairing, but its restrained aroma left room for the food. That balance made the Chigusa-maki combination more memorable than either element on its own.

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